Showing posts with label your. Show all posts
Showing posts with label your. Show all posts

Friday, December 27, 2013

Build a PIC Security System Dials Your Cell Phone Circuit Diagram

This is a simple PIC Security System Dials Your Cell Phone Circuit Diagram. Do-it-yourself phone dialer security system calls your cell phone, office etc. whenever a door or window is opened, or panic button is pressed. Great Home Alarm.

PIC Security System Dials Your Cell Phone Circuit Diagram

PIC Security System Dials Your Cell Phone Circuit Diagram


The circuit consists of a small PIC microcontroller, assembly program, and a few other parts to detect a switch closure from an open door, window, or manual push button and then dial the cell phone number, and transmit a steady tone to indicate the source of the call. The circuit uses the pulse dialing system to interrupt the line connection a number of times to indicate each digit. Pulse dialing (the oldest form of dialing) works by actually disconnecting or "hanging up" the phone line a number of times to indicate each digit. For example, the digit "5" would be dialed by disconnecting and reconnecting the line 5 times in short intervals of about 100mS. There is about a 1 second pause (with the line connected) between each digit. The timing is not critical and I was able to dial 411 and connect to the local information service just using a momentary push button switch in series with the phone line.

Circuit Operation:
In operation, the switch closure is detected on pin 7 of the processor which activates the reed relay and takes the line off-hook for 3 seconds to establish the dial tone. The processor then dials the number by opening and closing the relay a number of times for each digit. When dialing is complete, the processor waits 3 seconds and then transmits a steady tone of about 300Hz for 30 seconds through the modem transformer. The call is then terminated and the processor waits for the switch to open before resetting.

Design Considerations:

The PIC16F628 (18 pin) processor was selected because I had a few on hand and my homemade hardware programmer only accepts 18 pin devices. A smaller 8 pin device could have been used since only three I/O lines are needed, but the difference in cost is only about $1.50. One of the I/O lines (RA5) is used for programming and is always an input, but can used as a functional input so the switch closure could be detected on this line thus eliminating the need for one pullup resistor. But I elected to use 3 consecutive I/O pins (7,8,9) of the 8 bit port B and leave RA5 pulled up with a extra 10K resistor.

The output pins (8,9) that drive the relay and transformer are limited to 25mA of current each, so an extra transistor (2N2222A) was needed to supply additional current to the relay coil. The transformer resistance is around 100 ohms, so an additional 330 ohm resistor was added in series with pin 9 to limit the transformer current to around 10mA. An LED indicator and 330 ohm resistor were used on pin 8 to observe the dialing activity and indicate the line status. Several of the parts (relay, transformer and blocking capacitor) were obtained from an old 56K modem card.

The schematic shows a 47uF / 50 volt non-polarized capacitor used to block DC current to the transformer, however a regular polarized 50uF cap could be used if correct phone line polarity is observed. The modem was probably designed to work with unknown polarities at different locations, so a non-polarized cap was used. Its possible the cap and 470 ohm resistor can be replaced with a single resistor in series with the line to set the "off hook" line current to around 20mA. This may cause partial saturation of the transformer and reduced audio level, but might work well enough.

The power supply voltage is not critical and a 4.5 volt supply from three AA batteries should work. Or a switching type regulated 5 volt wall transformer can be used. The problem is insuring the relay gets enough voltage to operate. The rest of the circuit should run on reduced voltage. I used a 4.2 volt cell phone charger that worked well.

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Monday, December 23, 2013

Boost Current Upgrade Your USB Hub

Problems can arise with USB hubs that are powered from a PC when gadgets plugged into them draw too much current. This is often the case with devices fitted with USB cables that are too long or too thin, causing voltage drop. There’s no need to scrap your old USB hub, however, if you upgrade it using this little circuit and an external power supply.

Just cut the 5-V power wire of the USB cable inside the hub and solder a diode (D1) in the pass-through direction. Now connect the 5 V wire from the external power supply to the cathode of this diode. D1 prevents any current from the power supply from flowing back into the PC.

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Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Constructing your own Dual Power Supply Rise

Many times the hobbyist desires to have a simple, dual power supply for a project. Existing power supplies may be large either in power output or physical size. a simple Dual Power Supply is necessary.For most non-critical applications the best & simplest choice for a voltage regulator is the 3-terminal type.The three terminals are input, ground & output.

The 78xx & 79xx series can provide up to 1A load current & it have on chip circuitry to prevent damage in the event of over heating or excessive current. That is, the chip basically shuts down than blowing out. These regulators are cheap, simple to make use of, & they make it practical to design a method with plenty of P C Bs in which an unregulated supply is brought in & regulation is done locally on each circuit board.

This Dual Power Supply project provides a dual power supply. With the appropriate choice of transformer & 3-terminal voltage regulator pairs you can basically build a tiny power supply delivering up to amp at +/- 5V, +/- 9V, +/- 12V, +/-15V or +/-18V. You require to provide the middle tapped transformer and the 3-terminal pair of regulators you require:7805 & 7905, 7809 & 7909, 7812 & 7912, 7815 & 7915or 7818 & 7918.

The user must pick the pair they needs for his particular application.

Note that the + & - regulators do not must be matched: you can for example, use a +5v & -9V pair. However,the positive regulator must be a 78xx regulator, & the negative a 79xx. They have built in plenty of safety in to this project so it ought to give plenty of years of continuous service.

Transformer
This Dual Power Supply design makes use of a full wave bridge rectifier coupled with a centre-tapped transformer. A transformer with a power output rated at at least 7VA ought to be used. The 7VA rating means that the maximum current which can be delivered without overheating will be around 390mA for the 9V+9V tap; 290mA for the 12V+12V and 230mA for the 15V+15V. If the transformer is rated by output RMS-current then the worth ought to be divided by one.2 to get the current which can be supplied. For example, in this case a 1A RMS can deliver 1/(one.2) or 830mA.

Rectifier
They use an epoxy-packaged four amp bridge rectifier with at least a peak reverse voltage of 200V. (Note the part numbers of bridge rectifiers are not standardised so the number are different from different manufacturers.) For safety the diode voltage rating ought to be at least to times that of the transformers secondary voltage. The current rating of the diodes ought to be two times the maximum load current that will be drawn.

Filter Capacitor
The purpose of the filter capacitor is to smooth out the ripple in the rectified AC voltage. Theres dual amount of ripple is determined by the worth of the filer capacitor: the larger the worth the smaller the ripple.The two,200uF is an appropriate value for all the voltages generated using this project. The other consideration in choosing the correct capacitor is its voltage rating. The working voltage of the capacitor has to be greater than the peak output voltage of the rectifier. For an 18V supply the peak output voltage is one.4 x 18V, or 25V. So they have selected a 35V rated capacitor.

Regulators
The unregulated input voltage must always be higher than the regulators output voltage by at least 3V in order for it to work. If the input/output voltage difference is greater than 3V then the excess potential must be dissipated as heat. Without a heat sink three terminal regulators can dissipate about two watts. A simple calculation of the voltage differential times the current drawn will give the watts to be dissipated. Over two watts a heat sink must be provided. If not then the regulator will automatically turn off if the internal temperature reaches 150oC. For safety it is always best to make use of a small heat sink even in case you do not think you will need.

Stability
C4 & C5 improve the regulators ability to react to sudden changes in load current & to prevent uncontrolled oscillations.

Decoupling
The mono block capacitor C2 & C6 across the output provides high frequency decoupling which keep the impedance low at high frequencies.

LED
Two LEDs are provided to show when the output regulated power is online. You do not must make use of the LEDs in the event you do not require to. However, the LED on the negative side of the circuit does provide a maximum load to the 79xx regulator which they found necessary in the coursework of testing. The negative 3-pin regulators did not like a zero load situation. They have provided a 470R/0.5W resistors as the current limiting resistors for the LEDs.

Diode Protection
These protect chiefly against any back emf which may come back in to the power supply when it supplies power to inductive lots. They also provide additional short circuit protection in the case that the positive output is connected by accident to the negative output. If this happened the usual current limiting shutdown in each regulator may not work as intended. The diodes will short circuit in this case & protect the two regulators.

Dual Power Supply Schematic Diagram


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